So I’ve been running around a little town of Hossegor, France like a madman the last couple of days. Waking up early at sunrise (about 8am) checking spots, sandbars, winds…after a croissant of course. Most people dont know how tiring it can get doing this when you’re packed in a van with 6 other dudes full of boards and smelly wetsuits. The same dudes that you sleep with and eat every meal with and have any worthwhile conversation with (for a three week period). Its nice to have some alone time. I’ve been reading my book a lot. I even downloaded the movie (The Firm) so I can watch it on the plane after I’ve finished the novel.
Waves were good yesterday, big and barreling. I shot super slow-motion (new to me) and really liked the footage. By the time you get home, eat, shower, download the footage its about 11pm-then its off to bed for me.
Waves should be picking up tomorrow and today was the first day it was warm. I think we’ll try to get a day in Spain on Sunday and then hopefully Monday we’ll be off to our next destination (unknown at the moment).
A few photos of our trip.
