Twilight Skies

Shelter from the storm

Alex, Ian, Dylan, Tim in the witch’s bathtub

Scotland beachbreak.

 

 

In between rains, winds, weather and rainbows are twilight skies in northern Scotland. Since its so far north there never really is a “high noon.” The sun rises low and slowly slides across the sky and into the dusk. This astrological pattern is responsible for viewing subjects differently, or, in a different light so to speak. Sparkling eyes and smiles reflect different emotions that contagiously affect everyone present. Imagine dusk for an entire day, this is what Thurso, Scotland is like. People are genuinely very friends and are always willing to buy you a whiskey to talk shop. Of course, pressure systems will move in and out in a matter of minutes-so you could see sunshine, wind, rain, hail and topped with a rainbow in the distance in 20 minutes as we did the other day. 

 

This morning was the morning that we waited all week for, the reason why two of us changed our itineraries and stayed longer, the reason why we didn’t get on “the piss” last night-pumping, perfection waves. You would not believe it if you saw a J-Bay-like set up with only 15 guys out. 15 guys and more than half are now our “mates” after only being here for a few days. This translates into empty perfect barrels with just a few friends. 

 

This has been the best trip yet-I know that I say this a lot and its sorta becoming a cliché, but you have to go with it. Its really refreshing being on the road again-not knowing where you’ll be going next or what to expect for the upcoming days. Laying the bricks one step ahead is just about perfect timing just as long as you’re still standing. 

Shelter from the storm

Alex, Ian, Dylan, Tim in the witch’s bathtub

Scotland beachbreak.

Some tower, France

 

It’s early morning on the 14th of Occtober and I’m on a train from Paris to London. After racing on the train with a group of 7, complete with the largest amount of luggage you’ve ever seen, we stayed on a sidewalk all night waiting for the trian station to open. Cold, not fun, however, its just why we’re hear. You have to take the good with the bad and live life with a grain of salt. It always amazes me how two can communitcate with only a limited vocabulary and expressions-you can get around the world in a heartbeat with this skillset. It’s one that you have to develope, learn and teach.

 

We arrived in Paris at midnight after my wisdom prevailed the peer-pressure of binge drinking on a 6 hour ride. I would not feel sorry for the winner of that battle the following day. We had a coffee, some had an Irish coffee actually, and jumped in a couple of taxis to a desolated, dark Eiffel Tower. It was rather unique to see the most recognizable man-made object on Earth without anyone else around. We had parked out luggage at a hotel for 90Euros but couldn’t stay in the lobby so we found a place to ourselves between the Monday night drunks and the homeless. Everyone else slept while I leaned on a light post and finished my novel. At 5:30am the train station “opened” but it was more of an unlocking of the doors. Now, only if we could get our luggage out of our locked-up hotel we’d be on our way to further delays. 

 

The security to get to the U.K. was the craziest, most-intense customs I’ve ever been through. Here I am, with 6 friends-who are all hung-over, half asleep and smell like a distillery, talking to an English fellow who was relentless on our occupations, places of visits, returns and staying in the U.K. “I dont know,” was my most common answer. I didn’t look halfway decent with smelly clothes, no sleep and a two-week old beard from a 24 year-old. “Do you have a return ticke?” I showed him my train ticket to Paris.

“No, home? A plane ticket”.

“Yes”.

“Can I see it?”

“I didn’t print it out.”

“You didn’t print it out?”

No you fricking idiot! Waste trees because you think I’m lying to you? Get real I was thinking. This is when I

some tower, France

 to let him know that he is God and can do whatever he wants to complete his power trip.

 

 

Then my ticket was checked twice more before boarding my coach as if customs, immigration, the turnstyle entry and security missed me.

 

I’ve learned a lot of this trip thus far. Foremost to follow where life takes you-you’ll enjoy it a lot more and become more educated throughout the process. France, in my humble opinion, is the most beautiful country in the world and along with it comes the most beautiful woman. To go with the flow (with is usually backwards in France) will get you there while being able to enjoy the journey along the way. As I type I’m passing thru the Chunnel and still can’t bring myself to close my eyes. I fell as if I blink I will miss something. Something minute it may be but I’m not going anywhere with my eyes closed. Are you?

 

I am on my way to Scotland for a few days. I woke up yesterday morning and had a brief converstation with my travel companions and Scotland it was. The night before it was Italy and the day before that it was Ireland. Goodbye French beauties, baguettes and beachbreaks, for now-will return soon. I am speeding through fog banks and fields with little small houses occupying. Im confident that the three pairs of shorts in my suitcase are useless and the 3 smelly sweatshirts will all be worn simultaneously (or at the same time).

 

Happy Birthday, Dad.

San Sebastian

We made it to the small town of San Sebastian, Spain this morning. We work up at 6 am (a full two hours before sunrise) and drove about 70 kilometers and surfed a fun beachbreak. It was offshore and barreling and the boys nailed a couple of good clips. Its very interesting to drive over an international border (although you wouldn’t know it) and immediately see a change in scenery/architecture/culture and way-of-life. The building had a different feel to them and the housing is completely different (as is the language). It was almost a struggle for this former spanish speaker to adapt to the language-I always found myself wanting to say Bon Jour and Merci. Another interesting difference is that everyone is Spain is active. People ride their bikes, walk, run and play on the beach for exercise. In France, a workout is walking to the nearest bakery while smoking a cigarette.

We made it back for another fun surf session at a French beachbreak. The boys were really on it on this session and locked down some good stuff (in HD). Tomorrow might be the first day that we get to sleep in (fingers crossed) and leave for another country. We are still looking at the swell forecast, weather maps and wind patterns to decide where we go.

 

I miss home, but love being gone…

(where to next?)

Back in France

After a few days in Portugal we are back in France. We met up with the rest our of crew (now 7) spent a few days in Ericeira, Portugal and took a train back to Biarritz, France. The train was awful-long, bumby and loud…and packed. My back is tweaked but its okay because the scenery of France is healing. I’m excited for some good bread and wines. Its raining today but the weather and waves are supposed to be good for the next five days. A lot of WCT guys are still around so there should be some good action going on.

In Portugal we stayed at an apartment building that I stayed at two years ago. My friend Dylan broke his hand at the same spot he injured his knee at two years prior. First session both times, too. 

 

While driving around a really small town, Hossegor, we heard a small car honking a lot and chasing us down. We knew the 5 boardbags stacked on the roof were practically sideways but weren’t going anywhere, but this frenchie was determined to stop us. We had already received weird looks from everyone else in the town-but maybe this guy was tripping out on us. Sure enough it was a long, blond haired surfer dude asking if we were from California. I was posted in the back seat saying, “hey, thats my buddy, Geoffroy.” I stopped and talked with him briefly and hopefully he’ll come have a surf with us.

 

all for now.

Am I stupid? Economy is about to crash and Im spending a hell of a lot of money.

So just to put things into perspective here…I am a mid 20s, white, middle class, male. I have a college education and my own (pretty small) business editing videos-most action sports, and inside that mostly surfing. Business has been pretty steady but Im not living the rich life or anything. I would like more jobs, I guess, or even better, I would like jobs that pay better.

 

Anyways, I just booked a 3 week trip through Europe with some friends and bought a new HD camera package at around $10,000USD. Does this make me stupid? The economy is on the brink of failure and Im sitting here blowing my cushion for these kinds of times. I was really hesitant at first and almost regretted my decision-I mean, this is almost my entire life savings. But, I do have a plan and I talked with a friend who reassured me my decision was a good one.

I will be going on this trip to document it and hoping to market something out of it to make back my investment, or even better, come out on top a little. There are a few ways that I think I can do this. The camera package I purchased was on 0% financing for 6 months-as long as I pay it all back before then I don’t pay any interest. Now, the money is in the bank, and hopefully it still will be in 6 months time. I plan on paying a little back each month and if I need more money upon my due date, then I will sell the camera for about 80% of what I paid and look at it like a 6 month camera rental for about $2,000. Now, the rental fees for this same package is about $3,000 a month. So, I would keep the camera for 5 more months and spend $1,000 less. Seems like a good idea. Also, I could probably buy a new camera at that time and do the same financing and keep this process going. This would mean that I would always have brand new, top-of-the-line equipment.

 

Can I go wrong here? There are the obvious risks such as theft and/or not being able to get the price you want for it-but these are both extremes and are still existing if I were planning on keeping the camera for a longer period of time.

 

Also, I talked with a friend about the economy and he assured me that now is the best time to start a business. There is the least amount of competition and your competitors are probably scaling back anyway. He seemed to think that this is also the best time to buy a house or remodel your current home. Costs are down-they will be going back up in the near future and your investment will pay for itself in no time. Agree? If you have the will and good business fundamentals I would agree.

So, look at these times as an opportunity rather than a time to sit back and wait to see what happens. 

 

Good luck.

tar

Poor San Diego Chargers, 0-2

The supposed “Super Bowl contenders” are straight on their way to a loosing season. A loss is a loss and a win is a win, but, loosing the first two games in the final seconds on each by a total of 3 points is heartbreaking. Despite bad calls by the referee (they happen all the time, and they too, like you, are human, and make mistakes) we should have won. Enough of the complaining and time to get your head up about Monday Night Football against Brett Farve and the New York Jets.