Most of the Time

Most of the time I’m clear focused all around, Most of the time I can keep both feet on the ground, I can follow the path, I can read the signs, Stay right with it, when the road unwinds, I can handle whatever I stumble upon, I don’t even notice she’s gone, Most of the time. Most of the time It’s well understood, Most of the time I wouldn’t change it if I could, I can’t make it all match up, I can hold my own, I can deal with the situation right down to the bone, I can survive, I can endure And I don’t even think about her Most of the time. Most of the time My head is on straight, Most of the time I’m strong enough not to hate. I don’t build up illusion ’till it makes me sick, I ain’t afraid of confusion no matter how thick I can smile in the face of mankind. Don’t even remember what her lips felt like on mine Most of the time. Most of the time She ain’t even in my mind, I wouldn’t know her if I saw her She’s that far behind. Most of the time I can’t even be sure If she was ever with me Or if I was with her. Most of the time I’m halfway content, Most of the time I know exactly where I went, I don’t cheat on myself, I don’t run and hide, Hide from the feelings, that are buried inside, I don’t compromised and I don’t pretend, I don’t even care if I ever see her again Most of the time. Hope you enjoy.

Joshua Tree

I just spent the night in Joshua Tree earlier this week. I was helping out some friends with a music video for an artist by the name of Butch Walker. The song is pretty good and I think its the single off his debut album coming out in about a week. Butch produces for artist such as P!NK and Avril Levine.

The desert was really nice and the weather was great. It wasn’t too hot in the day and it wasn’t too cold at night. It amazed me that it takes so little to get away from everything-all the traffic, people, TVs, nonsense that you get caught up in your everyday life. Its great to hang with a few good friends and not worry about time or being somewhere or checking emails (or writing on your blog for the matter). 

We all cooked dinner at night sat around and shared laughs, wine and vodka while listening to Fleetwood Mac. Later, Butch and Bingo (the cool dude who ran the motel) played some good country acoustic tunes.

Twilight Skies

Shelter from the storm

Alex, Ian, Dylan, Tim in the witch’s bathtub

Scotland beachbreak.

 

 

In between rains, winds, weather and rainbows are twilight skies in northern Scotland. Since its so far north there never really is a “high noon.” The sun rises low and slowly slides across the sky and into the dusk. This astrological pattern is responsible for viewing subjects differently, or, in a different light so to speak. Sparkling eyes and smiles reflect different emotions that contagiously affect everyone present. Imagine dusk for an entire day, this is what Thurso, Scotland is like. People are genuinely very friends and are always willing to buy you a whiskey to talk shop. Of course, pressure systems will move in and out in a matter of minutes-so you could see sunshine, wind, rain, hail and topped with a rainbow in the distance in 20 minutes as we did the other day. 

 

This morning was the morning that we waited all week for, the reason why two of us changed our itineraries and stayed longer, the reason why we didn’t get on “the piss” last night-pumping, perfection waves. You would not believe it if you saw a J-Bay-like set up with only 15 guys out. 15 guys and more than half are now our “mates” after only being here for a few days. This translates into empty perfect barrels with just a few friends. 

 

This has been the best trip yet-I know that I say this a lot and its sorta becoming a cliché, but you have to go with it. Its really refreshing being on the road again-not knowing where you’ll be going next or what to expect for the upcoming days. Laying the bricks one step ahead is just about perfect timing just as long as you’re still standing. 

Shelter from the storm

Alex, Ian, Dylan, Tim in the witch’s bathtub

Scotland beachbreak.

Some tower, France

 

It’s early morning on the 14th of Occtober and I’m on a train from Paris to London. After racing on the train with a group of 7, complete with the largest amount of luggage you’ve ever seen, we stayed on a sidewalk all night waiting for the trian station to open. Cold, not fun, however, its just why we’re hear. You have to take the good with the bad and live life with a grain of salt. It always amazes me how two can communitcate with only a limited vocabulary and expressions-you can get around the world in a heartbeat with this skillset. It’s one that you have to develope, learn and teach.

 

We arrived in Paris at midnight after my wisdom prevailed the peer-pressure of binge drinking on a 6 hour ride. I would not feel sorry for the winner of that battle the following day. We had a coffee, some had an Irish coffee actually, and jumped in a couple of taxis to a desolated, dark Eiffel Tower. It was rather unique to see the most recognizable man-made object on Earth without anyone else around. We had parked out luggage at a hotel for 90Euros but couldn’t stay in the lobby so we found a place to ourselves between the Monday night drunks and the homeless. Everyone else slept while I leaned on a light post and finished my novel. At 5:30am the train station “opened” but it was more of an unlocking of the doors. Now, only if we could get our luggage out of our locked-up hotel we’d be on our way to further delays. 

 

The security to get to the U.K. was the craziest, most-intense customs I’ve ever been through. Here I am, with 6 friends-who are all hung-over, half asleep and smell like a distillery, talking to an English fellow who was relentless on our occupations, places of visits, returns and staying in the U.K. “I dont know,” was my most common answer. I didn’t look halfway decent with smelly clothes, no sleep and a two-week old beard from a 24 year-old. “Do you have a return ticke?” I showed him my train ticket to Paris.

“No, home? A plane ticket”.

“Yes”.

“Can I see it?”

“I didn’t print it out.”

“You didn’t print it out?”

No you fricking idiot! Waste trees because you think I’m lying to you? Get real I was thinking. This is when I

some tower, France

 to let him know that he is God and can do whatever he wants to complete his power trip.

 

 

Then my ticket was checked twice more before boarding my coach as if customs, immigration, the turnstyle entry and security missed me.

 

I’ve learned a lot of this trip thus far. Foremost to follow where life takes you-you’ll enjoy it a lot more and become more educated throughout the process. France, in my humble opinion, is the most beautiful country in the world and along with it comes the most beautiful woman. To go with the flow (with is usually backwards in France) will get you there while being able to enjoy the journey along the way. As I type I’m passing thru the Chunnel and still can’t bring myself to close my eyes. I fell as if I blink I will miss something. Something minute it may be but I’m not going anywhere with my eyes closed. Are you?

 

I am on my way to Scotland for a few days. I woke up yesterday morning and had a brief converstation with my travel companions and Scotland it was. The night before it was Italy and the day before that it was Ireland. Goodbye French beauties, baguettes and beachbreaks, for now-will return soon. I am speeding through fog banks and fields with little small houses occupying. Im confident that the three pairs of shorts in my suitcase are useless and the 3 smelly sweatshirts will all be worn simultaneously (or at the same time).

 

Happy Birthday, Dad.

San Sebastian

We made it to the small town of San Sebastian, Spain this morning. We work up at 6 am (a full two hours before sunrise) and drove about 70 kilometers and surfed a fun beachbreak. It was offshore and barreling and the boys nailed a couple of good clips. Its very interesting to drive over an international border (although you wouldn’t know it) and immediately see a change in scenery/architecture/culture and way-of-life. The building had a different feel to them and the housing is completely different (as is the language). It was almost a struggle for this former spanish speaker to adapt to the language-I always found myself wanting to say Bon Jour and Merci. Another interesting difference is that everyone is Spain is active. People ride their bikes, walk, run and play on the beach for exercise. In France, a workout is walking to the nearest bakery while smoking a cigarette.

We made it back for another fun surf session at a French beachbreak. The boys were really on it on this session and locked down some good stuff (in HD). Tomorrow might be the first day that we get to sleep in (fingers crossed) and leave for another country. We are still looking at the swell forecast, weather maps and wind patterns to decide where we go.

 

I miss home, but love being gone…

(where to next?)

Hossegor Update

So I’ve been running around a little town of Hossegor, France like a madman the last couple of days. Waking up early at sunrise (about 8am) checking spots, sandbars, winds…after a croissant of course. Most people dont know how tiring it can get doing this when you’re packed in a van with 6 other dudes full of boards and smelly wetsuits. The same dudes that you sleep with and eat every meal with and have any worthwhile conversation with (for a three week period). Its nice to have some alone time. I’ve been reading my book a lot. I even downloaded the movie (The Firm) so I can watch it on the plane after I’ve finished the novel. 

Waves were good yesterday, big and barreling. I shot super slow-motion (new to me) and really liked the footage. By the time you get home, eat, shower, download the footage its about 11pm-then its off to bed for me.

Waves should be picking up tomorrow and today was the first day it was warm. I think we’ll try to get a day in Spain on Sunday and then hopefully Monday we’ll be off to our next destination (unknown at the moment).

A few photos of our trip.

Bon, Paris

Bon Jour,

Merci.

Just got into my hotel in Paris. This place is absolutely amazing. I just love Paris. I was greeted by partly clouded skies and a brisk wind. The color of the grass against the sky gave me the same feeling last time I was here (visited here, not laid over). Took the subway in…was a mad dog mission. I have my camera, tripod, backpack and huge roller bag while trying to get the shot. Dylan had a backpack, a small roller and surfboards. We were laughing at ourselves trying to get around. If we stood in one place for long enough with a map in our hands people just started to offer help-no need to ask, need to say “parle vous English” (Do you speak English).

Plans to run around Paris a bit this afternoon-the Lourve, Eiffel Tower, Museum de Orsay (my favorite) some baguettes and fromages, maybe some crepes with fruit. Then, tomorrow at 20hr+ train ride to Lisbon.

I got a good book at LAX, “The Firm.” Never read Grisham before. Pretty good and since I couldn’t sleep on the flight I did some damage to that thing. 

Cardinal

So this is my first post. I should start by explaining what this blog is…its about me, my family and the things that I think of. I will also post things that I think are cool, creative and ways to make a million dollars. You can only read-on if you promise not to steal any of these ideas. I’ve been ripped off before and it hurt. Remember that Nike commercial where Kobe Bryant jumps over an Austin Martin? That was my idea and they completely ripped me off. Only a few months before that I did a video with college roommate Conor Colwell where a skater ollies off a ramp and over a car, just as the car crushes the ramp into a million pieces. At first, I was flattered that Nike stole my idea-and everyone told me to sue. I didn’t, I don’t like court-despite the fact that I am pretty mad about it (but over it).

 

Back to me, I just celebrated my 24th birthday. My friends took me out and got me drunk-and it felt pretty good. I can’t remember the last time I actually did something on my birthday. I then tried to stay sober for a month (which included opening day of the Del Mar Races) and it was good fun.